06/09/2026
🗾 In Nagasaki there is a hillside garden that receives around two million visitors a year. At the top of it stands the oldest surviving Western style house in Japan. It was built for a young man from Fraserburgh who arrived with almost nothing.
Thomas Blake Glover was born in 1838 in Fraserburgh, the son of a coastguard officer, and grew up in Bridge of Don in Aberdeen. He came out to Nagasaki in 1859, aged twenty one, in the first months after Japan opened its treaty ports to foreign trade. He was there at the exact hinge of Japanese history, and he did not stand still for a moment.
He traded tea and silk, then ships and arms. He supplied the western clans of Satsuma and Choshu who were pushing to overthrow the shogunate, and in 1865 he helped smuggle a group of young Choshu and Satsuma men out of Japan to study at University College London, at a time when leaving the country was punishable by death. Several of them came back to run the new Japan. One of them, Ito Hirobumi, became its first prime minister.
Then Glover did the harder thing. He built. 🚢
He put in Japan's first commercial steam locomotive demonstration, opened the Takashima coal mine using Western methods, and established the Kosuge slip dock, the patent slipway at Nagasaki that fed directly into what became the Mitsubishi shipyard. He was closely involved in the founding of the brewery that grew into Kirin, and Japanese lore has long claimed that the moustachioed mythical beast on the Kirin label is a nod to him.
In 1908 the Japanese government made him a member of the Order of the Rising Sun, a rare honour for a foreigner. He died in Tokyo in 1911 and is buried in Nagasaki, in the city he helped build. His wife was Japanese, his children were Japanese, and his descendants stayed.
A coastguard's son from the Buchan coast, buried on a hill above a Japanese harbour, remembered by a nation that is not shy about who it thanks.
Scots did not only go west. They went everywhere, and they left the place different.